Portugal - 2013

Harry,
     The view from sunny Florida is sensational! We have had record breaking warm weather, plus great friends here to keep me busy. However, I can tell by your blogs that you are sorely missing someone to pick on.
     I had to laugh when you described the “extra” sleeping area. That being the sofa that makes up to form a bed. We all know how those are! Let me see, first there was riding from Mexico to Costa Rica in Glee (named “Uglee” by me) where you had the leather driver’s seat and I had the plastic passenger seat. Of course due to overheating every couple of hours we did not use the air conditioner. Then there was the sectional sofa in Buenos Aires, the 3 inch mattress in LaPaz... yes, I am getting the idea.
     All summer I studied Chinese so I could converse, and of course I am already fluent in Spanish and now you pick Portuguese! I can hardly wait to hear you correct me every other word! Those of you who have had the pleasure of traveling with this educator will know what I mean.
     So the final question, when will I arrive? Oh, not too long from now, is it warming yet?
Schim


JOURNAL:

February 27, 2013
     Wow, I am here in Portugal. It is time to update and I just woke up. It is somewhat difficult to know what time it is here and what time in the Eastern states.
      Yesterday was pretty uneventful. My flights were all on time and I arrived in Lisbon as planned, 6 AM. The flight of 6 hours from Newark was nice and not crowded. The plane which was a new wide body (not to be confused with Harry) was at best 1/3 full. I was surprised that prior to landing they did not hand out the immigration papers which is normal prior to landing. They advised that the procedures have changed, as well they have! The authorities only looked and stamped my passport and I was on my way. Nice! True to Harry's word and advice, get the luggage, go to the ATM for Euro's and wait outside by the taxi stand for the bus to take me down to to the train station. It all worked out and there was Harry waiting for me. I was a little surprised at him not having flowers, but then it looks weird enough for two guys meeting each other at the station.
      We have spent the day getting up to speed with each others lives, acquainting me with the apartment, walking around the farmers market and seeing the little village. Food is always at the height of our day - it is fun to see the different kinds of food eaten at meal time. Breakfast at a neighborhood cafe appears to be mostly pastry and breads. I asked (in English of course) to have something that was so good in Spain (2 hours away?), a toasted roll with olive oil and rubbed with tomato. He said yes, and it arrived with a bottle of olive oil and nothing else. The translation must have lost something? Lunch was to Harry's favorite place and the owner and wife took great care of us. Salmon for Harry and sea bass for myself - great!!! Oh and a large pitcher of vino tinto consumed! :) The rest of the story is we both slept the afternoon away!
      Okay, so this is the first update as we get into a routine and I adjust to the 5 hour time change. The bantering has already started. My Spanish skills are sharp, too bad they don't understand their neighbors language. I think they can understand English better than Spanish. It is not possible to be my fault????
     Tchau (what ever that means, I thought it was food).


March 01, 2013
     Okay, so I am up and at 'em already. Well, it is late for my normal. In Orlando I seem to get up most days prior to 5 AM, here it is 7:30 or so!  I have to admit that the sofa is quite comfy (Harry will be upset to hear that).  I may stay 3 more weeks. While it is cool in the house, the propane heater does seem to take off the chill.
     Back to breakfast, Harry is still in his suite sleeping away or listening to his beloved Phillies.  I thought I would use the range to make an early cup of coffee. Nope, can not in any way figure out the European cook top, will have to look for the owners manual, which is probably in some other language - hopefully Russian, as I am fluent. Oh, yesterday I also screwed up their version of the one cup Keurig coffee maker. Harry and I did visit the Jumbo market - wow, I was impressed as it was very similar to the one that M.J. and I used to visit in Madrid. They had aisle after aisle of fish, cheese, breads, sausages, pates, and anything else you could desire.
     Sciatica, allergy, allergic, knee, head, shoulder... these things come out of Harry's mouth every other minute with his aches and pains.  Same as every other trip, we always are stopping to buy some new pill or ointment for his ills. He googles this and that, and stops at every pharmacy on the corner.  One of his journal entries stated he took very little medicine. Well, let me tell you, on the counter is his plastic box with dividers that any fisherman would envy for their lures!
     Well yesterday was a nice day - supermarket, bus ride though the area, drinks overlooking the water and a great dinner that started out bad. You see Harry said we will taxi to this great place (forget that we have hundreds of places out of our door) for an unforgettable dinner - yup, it was, except that it was closed for a special party. (Note: when you have your all time best friend in town, call ahead.)  So we taxi to another place that he is sure will be great. We decided on Bacalao - this is the fish you may have seen that is salted, dried and set in windows of shops for sale. M.J. and I had seen them in Madrid and never attempted them prior.  Wow, what a dish, it came out in a large 16 x 24 baking dish, puffed up, covered in caramelized onions, surrounded with chunks of potatoes, olives and delicious broth. This may have been the best meal I have ever eaten next to an Iowa pork tenderloin sandwich. Evening ended well with Harry teasing the attractive waitress with his charm? She said she is getting married soon, Harry inquired of the young man, the waitress said she is very excited to be marrying HER! So it goes here in Portugal!
     Oh, one last thing - thanks to all of Harry's friends who sent me money to come to Portugal and liven up Harry's daily life. It gives him something to write about instead of the daily meals and sciatica! 
     Chow...and soon!

March 02, 2013 - Trip to Lisboa
     Okay, okay, so you have read Harry's update and those of you who know him know that he speaks with slanted tongue, those that don't, DON'T.
     Our trip to Lisbon was made via trains, buses, trolley and taxi's as Harry said.  Yes, we saw a lot of narrow streets covered in cobblestone of sort (more to follow on this) and walked six blocks or so out of our way (not six miles) due to Harry not admitting that we needed to ask for directions!   And, oh yes, we had a great little pastry - in American we call it a Hostess Twinkie!  That, Harry's readers, is the rest of the story!
     Okay, so I do admit that the old guy is quite the tour guide showing me all of these sites and making sure that I admired what normally I would walk right past. It is good. Oops did I say that?
     One highlight Harry forgot to tell you was that he sat in a puddle of water on the seat of the double-decker bus that we rode throughout Lisbon. His pants took the rest of the day to dry even though he pointed his bottom toward the sun to dry them out when the opportunity presented itself.
     Our dinner, after our aperitif of cherry liqueur, a scotch and the grand presentation during dinner by the owner was a site to behold. He graciously gave us two bottles of his famous red wine. It was a great evening and one that reduced the amount of my estate for all to claim.  We did have one helluva day!
     Back to today - our friendly Bright House, Road Runner is not accepting my login. I have had two live chats and they assure me that I will be able to read my mail soon.
     Back to the cobblestones - it is not unusual to have cobblestone streets and sidewalks throughout Europe and South America, but here in Portugal all the sidewalks and streets are made of 3-4 inch odd shaped rocks.  I am talking of the hundred of trillion pieces placed in various designs.  Wow, what a site!  I am also impressed with all the signs and addresses that are from glazed tiles, the roofs are all tile and the cars are predominately small, and, of course, straight shifts.
     Okay, we just had our late lunch with a bottle of vino and now time to partake in another tradition – siesta!  Later.

March 04, 2013 - Sintra and More
     Brighthouse or Roadrunner finally has me hooked up to the Internet. M.J. and I have traveled to many countries and this is a first. In fact, last year in La Paz I had no problems, but enough of that. I always had Yahoo and the rest of the web.
     As Harry said, we had a great trip yesterday to Sintra. I particularly liked the winding bus ride to the top. We passed through towns that were quaint with narrow streets. At times it appeared the bus would not even fit. By the time we got off the bus both of us had enough of the bus and we opted to take the train home, via Lisbon.
     Smoking - while the smoking is not as much as previous European visits, it is quite a lot more than we see in the states. I am pleased that you must smoke outside of the restaurants. I glanced at the prices of cigarettes and it appears that they are expensive here also.
     Fish Auction - every day at 5 PM a very short walk from the apartment a building holds a daily fish auction. This is similar to the cattle auctions that I have seen in years past. The bidders (restaurants and wholesalers) sit in the auditorium like seats. The fish are in plastic containers and go in front of them via a conveyer belt. At the top of the line they are electronically weighed and the name of the fish along with the weight goes up on a large screen TV. The bidder submits his bid by a remote control. It is very quiet compared to a live auction.
     As Harry has said (most of which is not true!) we had a great dinner last evening, love to eat the peasant food, this is where the true flavor of a country comes out. Well, today is a rainy day, the first that we have had. I suspect today will be spent eating and drinking, and maybe a visit to the library. ?  Who knows?

March 05, 2013 - Chestnuts Roasting
     I have forgotten to tell you that chestnuts are roasting on many corners in Portugal. They are quite tasty and a nice treat in the middle of the day.  In fact just a half block from our door a lady is constantly roasting them. It happens to be in front of the only fast food place that I have seen in Cascais proper - McDonald's!  Harry, of course, refuses to walk in the door, even though their coffee and ice cream are tops.
     Rain in Spain is mostly... oh, the rain in Portugal hit us big time on Monday. Prior to that we had only drizzles which was fine. Not yesterday, after trying to sleep during the night, lots of strong wind and lashing rain, the whole day was pretty much hitting us hard. I wondered why the apartment had a strong breeze, appears that the door in the living area (my sleeping area) blew open!  We made the best of a dreary day - walked with our flimsy umbrellas for breakfast (oh, Spanish for umbrella is para agua... get it? stop water).  We were in search of an American breakfast, but the one place we found had all the doors open and were cleaning, we opted for our cheese and ham sandwich. Oh, back to the umbrellas - if any of you are in a mind to start a new business, I probably saw 20 or more discarded umbrellas that were ruined by the wind. Pick 'em up and refurbish, and you have a steady income. ???
     We made the most of the day by taking a cab in the pouring rain to Alabideche which is a nearby city here in the area. Needless to say Harry told me how to say it, and was so confident (as always), but, the cab driver did not understand him. Okay, so we get to this place and it is huge with lots of charm. We ordered a Portugal comfort food name of acorda, which is shrimp, garlic and bread in a casserole of sorts. Very tasty but way too much bread for the day!  I much preferred the previous days comfort food of feijoada. We had our carafe of wine along with dessert and brought the convenient bus home to the apartment.
     Fortunately after snoozing most of the afternoon the rain cleared up as we went in search of dinner at 8 PM, take out chicken on the barbi – wonderful.  As we were leaving Harry asked me what was that they were cooking on the grill to the left. He assumed it was meat, no just charcoal!  It is difficult traveling with the aged!  Harry loaded a movie in the player and proceeded to cry throughout.
     Well, what will await us this fine day?  Rain has stopped and it is clear, and oh yes, the heater is out of fuel. I do think that we will have eggs and port-sausages as the landlady instructed us how to use the range.
     CHOW... soon.

March 07, 2013 - Food and More
     Okay where to start? Maybe a few general topics that I have made:

* English - of all the countries and travels, I think that English is the most used in this country. No, I don't mean ahead of Portuguese, but very popular among all ages.

* Tiles - the decorative and informative use of tiles is really evident in Portugal. Yes, in Spain they were used and common but not to this extent. The street markings are on the corner of most buildings, many houses have them as accent, some buildings even have the whole front using them, and, of course, 99.5% of the houses use them on the roof! (all in orange)

* Cars - they are all small and I would say predominately straight shift and common to be diesel. The tiny Smart Car is everywhere (2 seater) as is the competitor, IQ (cute name). No one uses a large car, and the mid-sized SUV is rare. Of course, with the narrow roads and lack of parking, the cars have to be small.

* Coffee - always before I would order coffee Americana, but that does not work here. Harry has half coffee and warm milk. I opt for coffee grande, which is a double espresso, which I don't mind as I do like strong coffee. Even our Keurig cup maker (different name) in the apartment, makes espresso.

* Fish - everyone sells fish and it is certainly the favorite of all. I mean old and young. No, fish sticks here! Think fresh.

* Vino - most people drink wine at lunch as well as dinner. I help with this tradition. By the way, the noon meal (2 PM) appears to be possibly the main one for most people.

      Met a couple who are friends of Harry's (surprising?), they retired here from Hawaii (really). They researched places to retire and Portugal was in the top 10. They rent (for only $1200) and the house is drop dead beautiful in center of this village. It would easily rent for $3500 elsewhere. Not sure how they got it so inexpensively. They live without a car and do very well without knowing the language.
     Harry and I took the train to Lisbon yesterday to seek a hotel for my last two days. Harry is kicking me out as he has a female joining him - his wife. We were pleasantly surprised and elated when there was no conductor on the train verifying our tickets and the electronic gates were open. Only when we returned to Lisbon station for our trip back to Cascais did we discover that it was a train strike! We waited on board a train that we supposed would go, and sure enough, in an hour and a half off we went - standing room only. These two old guys (Harry and I) did not get up to give up our seats as were bushed.
     I had a great lunch of rice with octopus and Harry ate squid. Oh, I forgot to tell of the night before at our nightly stop we had a tapas of pig cheeks! After going through a few hotels I did make a reservation, but decided when I got home to do one from Orbitz online. The weather was shirt sleeve warm. Our daily nap was in order when we arrived back, and dinner of great pizza (thin with super cheese), vino, of course, and even a little salad. Strolling back to the apartment, we had flan and coffee. (I also have flan and snickers in the fridge for emergencies).
     This morning I will make eggs for myself as Harry likes his pastry from the corner. Word has it we are going to Porto for the day if the speed train runs, and I am sure I will be in for more lectures of what to look at. If it is Porto, I intend to drink Port!!!
     Okay, so that is it. Sorry for the length to the one or two of you who might be reading.


March 09, 2013 - Back from Porto
     Well the rain is over and so is the train strike! Harry and I canceled our trip for Thursday as the strike was still on. Spent the day as normal: a little walking, lots of talking, eating, reading and napping. :)  What could be better?  Well, we did get wetter than ever as we were a few blocks away from our lunch spot and down it poured, no umbrella. Of course Harry blamed me for us getting wet. Oh the lunch, pork, rice, fries, egg, wine and almond pastry. I marvel at how most dinners include rice and fries on the same plate - can you say el gordo (me).
     Yesterday the strike was over for a time. Harry and I got up early and took the train to Lisbon, cab to another train terminal (which was state of the art for some 1998 Expo), and then to Porto (180 miles). Our ticket was only $12 as we are seniors (duh) and got half price. I enjoyed seeing the countryside and all the little villages. I still am amazed that all of the homes have tile roofs, from 200 years ago to now. I noticed that most homes are very large. Did not see many farm animals - a few sheep, goats and an occasional horse. Harry says we were looking at a few rice paddies, some logging (never saw the cork tree), and vegetables.
     We arrived in Porto at 1 PM or so, and took a cab to the river area which is breathtaking. The cliffs overlooking the river are filled with buildings hanging on to the side. Of course the streets are narrow and winding. Most of them have iron railings, flowers, and laundry hanging out. The Port caves are across the river. The most enjoyable part of the trip was walking the tiny streets and observing the tiny shops (not for tourists) and the general way of life.
     Almonds – oh, everywhere you go they sell the candied Jordan almonds. Seems almonds must be a large part of the agriculture? I, of course, along with my other meals, ate many of these tasty candies.  Port - I like the rather sweet but warming taste of port, would be great with the morning eggs!
     We ended the afternoon with an okay lunch and even better a glass of port by the water, then hailed a cab which had a wonderful driver. Harry directed him to drive across the river so I was able to see the caves (spent more time doing that than viewing the Prado in Madrid), and asked the cabbie to take us up to the park so Harry could look out and renew his memories of when he was on a motor bike trip though here. I have heard the story of this so many times I could almost tell it myself!
     Okay, so hit the train station at 4-ish, where we paid $22.00 for a first class ticket on the high speed train (135 mph) and headed home, taking less than three hours, onto the subway, and two lines ending up at our proper train station for the ride to Cascais.  A long and full day, the locals would not think possible, yet, I felt worth the trip. The speed train was filled with business people on their computer or cell phones the whole way. The train car even has electrical outlets for charging the devices. A train hostess passes through frequently handing out coffee, juices and water. I will say the train was much more comfortable than any other form of transportation.
     Well that is it. I'm headed to Lisbon this morning. I hope to update again from the hotel, but as you travel, you never know about the hookups. Bye.


March 10, 2013 - From Lisbon, Hotel Amazonian
     All went as planned and the hotel is nice. I want to thank Harry for all of his help. Harry, I did fine, is it okay now for me to take off the note that you pinned to my jacket?
     I left Harry this morning right after breakfast. Harry was washing clothes and preparing for a day of being lonely. His wife arrives tomorrow so I am sure he will do fine. I took the train to Lisbon and immediately hopped a cab as I was carting my suitcase. Cab driver took me a different way and for a time I wondered if it was correct, but he went up the hill to Bairro Alto and then direct to my hotel. I am pleased with the hotel, clean large room, nice lobby, bar and breakfast in the morning. At noon I left the hotel following signs to
Bairro Alto and to the train station that we used so frequently to go to Cascais. I wanted to see the market that is across the street. The walk, while long, was neat.  Passed an outdoor weekend farmers market, stopped at the park overlooking the city (near the incline) and then had sushi for lunch. I continued my walk through the center of town and up the main drag of Avenue de Liberdadt (Liberty).
     Fruit, fish and total hills = Portuguese people that are not overweight! Unlike Madrid that every other store front is a tapas place and bar, here it is a small fruit and vegetable stand. Fruit is eaten like candy, and, of course, everyone walks everywhere, and there are no flat areas, I'm talking major hills. (I do keep the American tradition going of eating the candy).
     Well, today is Sunday, which is my last day in Lisbon.  I again walked through the streets on a much quieter day as it is Sunday and many places are closed. I particularly like the park that overlooks the Avenue Liberty. Lunch today was feij alenteja which is a bean soup, mushrooms, and meat in a stew. The table was set with two breads that I had not seen prior, one was stuffed with pepperoni and the other with pieces of pork. Very tasty dipping into the stew.
     Okay, so this is it... I will take a taxi to the airport in the morning rather than the two transfers of the subway with my luggage. The trip has been all I expected, and makes me want for more.
     Thanks to Harry, and his daughter who does the web site, it has been fun to write about the trip. Yes, Harry and I did travel the same routes, even though he saw things a little more dramatic, to say the least.














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